For safety reasons, I recommend to attach a heat shrink tubing. Then the four cables are pressed into the slots and the solder joints are sealed with hot glue if necessary. The RGB strip is inserted into the connector so that the solder joints are in the connector. This connector is on the RGB side and open at the top. The PINs should not be soldered too deep towards the LED and the alignment must fit. After that I solder the PINs to the soldering points without additional solder. I prefer to apply solder to the RGB strip at the soldering points (copper layer) first. Since no preparatory work on the cables is necessary, soldering can be started directly. Beyond that, it is a personal preference. Depending on the brand, the plastic housings are 12 mm or 14 mm long. It is best to put a female pin header into the PCB, solder that, then connect the DuPont male. The length of the plastic housing does not matter. It is crucial to use jumper cables with square housing (standard dimension: 2.54 mm). The side with the PINs (male) were soldered to the RGB strip and the socket (female) was used as a plug. The LED strip was separated directly at the pre-marked point with a standard pair of scissors (usually the RGB strips are divisible after every third LED).įor the jumper cables I chose one side male and the other female. The strips were pushed into a 3D printed socket afterwards. You can also order Housings ( from 1-20 and multirow) where you can insert the crimped wires and make a "One Touch" Connector for a couple of wires to the arduino.For a larger project I needed 16 RGB strips with 21 LEDs each. But Soldering and "thermic shrinkable tubing" is lots of work. Stephans System is pretty cool and will work perfect. ( Just google for Precission non precission to see difference) EDIT: Picture show female. These are bigger and nearly same like "non precission pins". I order in the past some "Crimp Dupont contacts" like this. So this pins are not good for a permanent connection ( simply cause they are to smal and can fall out of the MEGA) Means the diameter of the Pin needles are smaller like the "Non precission" Pins. The Dupont Wires (Jumper wires like this ) you get with your mega ( for example in Laboratory set with Breadboard ) are "mostly" "precission". This eliminates the need to unnecessarily spend money on the shields you mentioned. I skipped over several sizes at that point, and bought a set of 16-wire housings which allow me to make any custom-size housing I will probably ever. By the time I got to 4-wire housings, the prices began to feel skewed. But even here you can help yourself by creating a central GND point on a small piece of breadboard. After discovering Dupont connectors, I started ordering each size of plastic housing: single-wire, double-wire, etc. The situation is different with the GND supply. at 7:11 begingroup The small hole in the side is for a. Is your project going to be in a high vibration area 0.1' dupont connectors are fairly tight. you could always pull off the plastic and solder the metal connector. Before the solder steles on the pin headers pull shrink tubing with adhesive over the cable ends and finished are perfect connections.Īs far as the power supply to the power supply via the MEGA is concerned, I basically agree with you. Do not attempt to solder the female connectors. These can be cut to the required requirements, are in the 2.5 mm grid (0.1 inch grid) and ensure a secure contact. Screw or clamp connections have the disadvantage that they stress the cables mechanically.Īt the transitions, for example cable -> MEGA, the cables should be soldered to the connector. They are not suitable for the final construction.īasically, cable connections should be soldered. The DuPont cables are designed and intended solely for experimenting with the breadboards.
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